In the Beiras regions, all roads seem to lead to Leiria from surrounding tourist favourites such as Coimbra, Alcobaça, Fatima and Batalha, with its outstanding monastery. However, beyond being the geographical hub, Leiria has its own charms. Built on the hills and flatlands that flank the River Lis, its old quarter and ancient monuments make it a worthy visit, even if the more modern sections are…