Occupying the tallest of Lisbon's hills, the district of Alfama brims with the feel of times gone by and is the truly emblematic part of the city. Largely spared in the earthquake of 1755, it is still a maze of narrow streets and steep steps, dimly lit taverns, flower-laden iron balconies and diminutive squares. Almost certainly the best way to see the wonders of this district, besides walking of…